How to care for a vintage watch

Water resistance: assume none

Unless a vintage watch has recently been pressure-tested by a qualified watchmaker, treat it as non-water-resistant. Gaskets and seals deteriorate with age, and a watch rated to 30 metres in 1975 may admit water through degraded seals today. Keep vintage pieces away from rain, condensation, and — obviously — swimming or showering.

This applies even to pieces originally marketed as divers' watches. A vintage Seiko diver is a magnificent object, but without a fresh service and pressure test, its original depth rating means nothing.

Winding and setting

Manual-wind watches should be wound approximately the same time each day — typically in the morning. Wind clockwise until you feel resistance, then stop. Do not force the crown past this point; vintage mainsprings can break if overwound, though most have safety mechanisms.

To set the time, pull the crown to the second position and rotate. On pieces with a day-date complication, avoid setting the date between approximately 9pm and 2am — this is when the calendar mechanism is engaged, and forcing the date wheel can damage the teeth.

Automatic watches do not require manual winding if worn regularly, but should be wound when first put on after sitting unused. A fully wound automatic will typically run for 36–42 hours.

Storage

Store vintage watches in a cool, dry environment away from direct sunlight. UV exposure fades dials over time — particularly with cream or white dials. A watch box or roll is ideal.

Avoid storing near strong magnets. Vintage watches typically lack modern anti-magnetic shielding, and a magnetised balance wheel will cause the watch to run fast. This is correctable with a watchmaker's demagnetiser, but it is worth avoiding.

Servicing

A vintage watch that has not been serviced within the last five to eight years should be considered overdue. The lubricants in a movement dry out, increasing friction and accelerating wear. A full service — disassembly, cleaning, fresh lubrication, regulation, and case work — costs between £80 and £200 for most vintage pieces and significantly extends the working life.

Not every watch needs immediate servicing. A piece that runs accurately and winds smoothly can simply be monitored. But if a watch is running erratically, stopping unexpectedly, or gaining more than a few minutes per day, a service is indicated.

What not to do

Do not polish vintage watch cases. Polishing removes metal, rounds off the crisp edges that define a well-made case, and destroys the original patina that makes vintage pieces distinctive. A case with honest wear is far more desirable to serious collectors than a freshly polished one.

Do not attempt to open the case back without the correct tools. The resulting scratches around the edge are a permanent record of the attempt — and immediately visible to any future buyer.